Each Culinary Artist Should Train At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Eatery Ranks 4th on List of London’s Top Restaurants.

Whenever compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has made the family totally surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest shop earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary triumph.